Discover Naples, Ischia and Capri in three days…it’s relax, pizza and sfogliatelle time!
We arrive in Naples in the evening around 8 pm. We book an hotel near the central station, leave our luggage and head straight away for the Antica Pizzeria da Michele which is The Authentic Pizza in Naples. Wait outside, at the entrance, a waiter will give you a number and as soon as the table get cleared inside your turn will come. Waiting time is at least half an hour but don't be discouraged ... do you want to taste the real Napolitan pizza or not? In the queue there are both (many) foreigners and Napolitans, wish is a guarantee of quality. Once seated the service is simple, paper placemat and napkin, but we don't care. You can choose between margherita or marinara (the simplest pizza ever with tomato, origan, olive oil, garlic, anchovies). We take one per type and we would have ordered another, but since it was late unfortunately the dough was finished.
On the first morning we decide to explore the historic districts of Naples: just walk around and get lost in the narrow streets of the historic center, between shops and churches, step inside, the views of the architectural structure are breathtaking. Not to be missed is Via San Gregorio Armeno with tiny shops with both nativity and famous people figures.
We continue the walk tasting the excellences of the Napolitan pastry: the ‘sfogliatella' from Scaturchio in San Domenico Maggiore Square, the ‘Fiocco di neve’ (which means snowflake) from Poppella in Santa Brigida Street.
Our destination for the day is the Beverello pier, which we reach by admiring the towering Maschio Angioino.
We grab the first hydrofoil towards Ischia. We arrive in time for lunch. A good lemon ’scialatielli’ with mussel overlooking the harbor and off to our hotel.
In Ischia we book a night in the Castiglione Thermal Park Hotel which is easy to reach by bus from the pier. A lift will bring you to the rooms and pools: now you’re ready to enjoy relaxation: the hotel and the rooms are pretty, but the core of the structure is precisely the spa park. There are pools at different temperatures tossed into the green, a turkish bath grotto, sea water pool, deck chairs, a pier overlooking the sea (unfortunately it was closed because it was October). We chose this solution because we saw that the access to other thermal parks amounted to € 40 a day per person. In Castiglione, on the other hand, we paid € 110 in two including night and breakfast, it was closer to the port than other spa facilities and the waters are really from thermal springs.
A plus for hotel guests is a free mud mask, the possibility to relax in the pools even after the opening hours to the public and finally to be able to use the spa facilities both on check-in and check-out days. From the breakfast to the dinner everything was good!
On the night after we wanted to spend the night in Capri but it was not possible because the Ischia-Capri ferry connections in October are available in the morning only. So we spent another night in Ischia. In this way we also got to see the beautiful castle overlooking the sea!
On the morning of the second day we grab the first ferry to Capri. On the boat a qualified guide from the Campania region explaines us how Capri works: long queues that can be avoided by participating at the guided tour, for € 20 sounds a good solution.
In fact, what happens, despite being mid-October, is just this: as soon as you arrive, the queue for the cable car is eternal, at least 1h. With the guided tour we immediately go to Anacapri by minibus. A beautiful walk along the Axel Munthe Avenue takes you to Villa San Michele…the view of Capri from here is breathtaking!
We get back on the bus and while the guide tells interesting anecdotes we reach the world-famous ‘Piazzetta’. A short walk through the narrow streets of the town, crossing the Garden of Augusto we arrive up to Belvedere Punta Cannone, from where you cannot miss the photo with the Faraglioni in the background. We decide to add to our trip the boat excursion that takes us right in the middle of the Faraglioni. Legend tells that if you kiss under the Faraglioni you won’t split-up! The boat also takes us to discover the caves of the island.
We return to Naples with the last ferry. The guide very kindly offered to reserve the last seats on it. If you go in high season, book earlier! On the way back we enjoy a beautiful sunset over the Vesuvio.
For dinner we try out a pizza with filled crust...check it out in the historic center: Pizzeria dell'angelo, superb!
On the morning of the third day we visit another part of Naples: Piazza Plebiscito with another ‘sfogliatella’ at Gambrinus Pastry, the Galleria Umberto I, the beautiful Toledo metro station, the cathedral and finally lunch with fried pizza at ‘La figlia del Presidente’ in the historic center.
Our tour ends here. Unfortunately we had little time, otherwise we would certainly have added to the visit the Sansevero Chapel, the underground tour of Naples, Castel Sant’Elmo and the Certosa of San Martino, Positano and Amalfi or Pompei.
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And now, the costs for three days / four nights,
Return flight Turin-Naples € 40
Transport: hydrofoil Naples / Ischia, ferries, Ischia / Capri, Capri / Naples, airport / center € 80
Hotel 130 €
Food and souvenirs: € 100
Gesù Nuovo Church